DisplayHUB FAQs

DisplayHUB is a wireless (or wired) TV control and video-matrix system for venues like sports bars, restaurants, breweries, gyms, churches, and offices. It routes any source — live TV, HDMI, video files, or streams — to any screen, and you control everything from a phone, tablet, or computer dashboard. It runs on off-the-shelf Raspberry Pi hardware and your existing smart TVs, so there are no proprietary set-top boxes or rack-mounted HDMI matrix required. See how it compares to an HDMI matrix.

Three roles: one Controller Pi that runs the dashboard for the whole location; one Encoder Pi per input (each encodes an HDMI source, a video file, or a video URL); and Players — your existing smart TVs running the DisplayHUB app: Roku, Android TV / Google TV, Fire TV, Samsung Tizen, and LG webOS — or inexpensive Android dongles.

Roku TVs, sticks, and streambars, Android TV / Google TV, Amazon Fire TV, Samsung Tizen, and LG webOS (our LG app is now live in the LG Content Store). Each platform’s page has exact install steps and the settings to enable.

A basic setup can be running in about 30 minutes. You install the player app on your TVs and flash the Controller and Encoder SD card images. Self-install is designed to be easy; larger or more complex venues can use a local computer shop, our guided install service, or on-site installation. Doing a big rollout? Read the pre-arrival installation tips first.

No — it just needs to be on the same network. Once the controller is on your network (wired or wireless, however you connect it), open http://displayhub.local in a browser from any device on that same network. A laptop is easiest for the initial setup, but a phone or tablet works too.

No. DisplayHUB builds in place. Leave your current setup where it is — put the controller anywhere and each encoder next to your existing inputs, DirecTV boxes, or cable boxes. Everything is network-based, so there are no HDMI pullbacks and no rewiring.

Yes. The software is free to install and use with no credit card required. Free displays show a small watermark (and occasionally an ad). You only pay when you want to remove the watermark/ads by licensing your displays.

This is not legal advice — for your specific situation, confirm the details with the content providers whose programming you show, and if in doubt, an attorney. That said: DisplayHUB is video-distribution technology, no different in principle from an HDMI matrix switcher or an AV-over-IP system that uses its own proprietary transmitters and dongles. It takes an HDMI signal you are already entitled to display and redistributes it to the TVs in your venue over your own private network. It does not unlock channels, bypass subscriptions, or change what you are licensed to watch — you use your own source devices and your own accounts, exactly as you would feeding a traditional matrix. We do not violate any provider’s terms of service; the equipment simply moves your video from one point to another, the same job a rack-mounted HDMI matrix does.
What actually determines legality is the content licensing on your source side, and that is the venue’s responsibility no matter how the video is distributed. Commercial establishments generally need commercial (business) accounts for what they show publicly — for example a commercial DirecTV for Business account, or EverPass for NFL games, and a music-licensing arrangement (ASCAP / BMI / SESAC) if you play audio. That requirement is identical whether the signal reaches your TVs through DisplayHUB, an HDMI matrix, an IPTV headend, or a single TV on the wall. DisplayHUB is neutral to all of it — it distributes whatever legal source you connect.
To verify for your case: read our guide to NFL Sunday Ticket, EverPass and DirecTV for bars, and confirm the commercial terms directly with each provider you use (DirecTV for Business, EverPass, your cable/streaming provider) and a music-licensing body for audio. When in doubt, your provider or an attorney can confirm exactly what your venue needs.

DisplayHUB offers two playback modes. Low-latency (WebRTC) keeps the buffer tiny for near-instant, sub-second video — ideal for live sports and anywhere real-time matters. HLS is buffered streaming that downloads several seconds ahead for maximum stability, at the cost of more delay (typically 6–12 seconds). Newer, faster player hardware handles low-latency best; if a device struggles, switch that display to HLS.

Some delay is normal and depends on the playback mode and device. Low-latency mode is under a second; HLS mode is 6–12 seconds because it buffers ahead for smoothness. Roku always uses buffered/HLS playback (6–12s) — see below. To minimize delay, use capable players in low-latency mode on a solid (ideally wired) network.

Roku devices cannot run ultra-low-latency streaming — they always use buffered HLS playback, so a delay of about 6–12 seconds is normal and expected. Every other platform we support (Android, Fire TV, Samsung, LG) uses a modern low-latency protocol (WebRTC) that is far better for synchronization; Roku simply doesn’t support it, and there is nothing we can do to change Roku’s buffering. On Roku the only sync tool is the Nudge control. If you need tight sync or sub-second delay on a screen, use a non-Roku player. Details: Roku compatibility.

Non-Roku players (Android, Fire TV, Samsung, LG) use our low-latency WebRTC protocol, which keeps them tightly in sync automatically. Roku can’t use that protocol, so Roku screens rely on the Nudge buttons — shift a screen’s playback slightly forward or backward until it matches the others (press repeatedly for fine adjustment). Nudge doesn’t remove latency, it only aligns timing between devices, and on Roku it’s the only sync tool there is. Wired Ethernet keeps everything more consistent.

This usually means the player hardware is being pushed hard in low-latency mode (audio is the first thing to suffer when a CPU is busy). Fixes: switch that display to HLS mode for a more forgiving buffer, use a wired connection, or move to a stronger device (newer processor, 2 GB+ RAM). You can also disable audio on that display entirely — most venue screens are muted anyway, and turning audio off removes the audio-processing load completely. Older/entry-level TVs and budget sticks are the usual culprits.

Yes. Playback mode is per display, so you can run capable screens in low-latency for live sports while older TVs fall back to HLS for stability. They can all show the same source; they just won’t be frame-matched across the two modes.

No — DisplayHUB is built around 1080p HD, and that’s a deliberate design choice, not an oversight. Four practical reasons: Encoder cost — real-time 4K encoding needs far more powerful, far more expensive hardware on every input, which defeats the whole point of cheap, off-the-shelf Raspberry Pi encoders. Network congestion — 4K uses roughly four times the bandwidth of 1080p; across many screens on a shared venue network (especially over WiFi) that quickly overwhelms things and causes buffering, stutter, and sync problems, whereas 1080p keeps a multi-TV venue smooth. Player support — many of the inexpensive smart TVs, sticks, and dongles used as players can’t reliably decode a 4K low-latency stream, so you’d be limited to a small subset of high-end devices, the opposite of our “use the TVs you already have” approach. Content reality — for live TV and sports (the main venue use case), almost nothing is actually broadcast in 4K, so it would add major cost and network load for content that generally isn’t 4K anyway. For a wall of TVs viewed across a room, crisp 1080p looks excellent and performs reliably. You can still tune bitrate and resolution within HD in the encoder quality settings.

For a bar, restaurant, gym, or similar venue, no. Live television and live sports — the programming most venues show — are still delivered overwhelmingly in 720p or 1080i HD, not 4K. Broadcast and most cable/satellite sports feeds are HD; true 4K live sports is rare and limited to a handful of special events or channels. (On-demand streaming apps like Netflix or YouTube do offer 4K, but that’s not the typical live-TV source in a venue.) Combined with normal viewing distances across a room, 1080p on your screens looks sharp and clean. If you have a specific 4K requirement, contact us and we can talk through options.

A Raspberry Pi 5 for the controller (32 GB+ microSD, good-quality power supply) and one Raspberry Pi 5 per input for encoders (32 GB+ microSD, plus an HDMI USB capture device for live HDMI inputs). Players are your existing smart TVs or cheap Android dongles. All hardware is off-the-shelf and easy to return or repurpose. Full list on the Installation page. Deal tip: Vilros has a great-value Raspberry Pi 5 starter kit — for an encoder, all you add is the HDMI USB capture dongle.

No. The Raspberry Pi 5 is required and is the only board we support for controllers and encoders. We’re aware the Pi 4 has a hardware encoder chip — we still will not support the Pi 4 or any earlier model, so please don’t build on them or ask us to troubleshoot them. Use a Pi 5. Good-value option: the Vilros Pi 5 starter kit, plus the HDMI USB capture dongle for encoders.

Install the HDMI-to-USB 3.0 capture dongle into the upper-left USB port of the Raspberry Pi 5.

The HDMI capture dongle brings video IN from any source device — a DirecTV/cable box, a Roku, a Xumo box, a media player, a PC, anything with an HDMI output. If you’re only using something like Xumo, that’s your input, but the HDMI input can be anything. Important: the specific dongle we link to avoids the HDCP errors that most cheap HDMI dongles cause. That’s why we link to that exact one — use it, not a random substitute.

It’s a recommended add-on (~$20) for handling HDCP-protected sources and pulling audio. The capture dongle we link handles most cases; the HDCP bypass extractor is there for sources that need it.

Encoders can run warm under load. Use the passive cooling option we recommend and keep airflow around the Pi. If you see throttling or crashes, read Raspberry Pi overheating.

Yes, three ways: Complete systems — fully assembled and tested, ready to install; Preconfigured Pis — Raspberry Pis shipped already set up as controllers/encoders; or DIY — use your own Pis and our install images/commands. Please note: our complete and preconfigured systems are currently on back order — contact us for current lead times, or go DIY to start today (the Vilros Pi 5 starter kit plus an HDMI capture dongle is all you need per encoder). Consulting and on-site installation are also available for complex or multi-site rollouts.

Use an SD card imaging app like Balena Etcher to flash our custom Controller and Encoder images to the microSD cards, then boot the Pi and configure it through the built-in web dashboard. New to flashing a Pi? The official Raspberry Pi getting-started guide covers the basics — and any local computer shop or tech-savvy person will know exactly what to do, since it’s the same as everyday computer networking and streaming. Contact us for the current download link to the image package (both controller and encoder images are included).

Contact us and ask for the current image download link — we rotate it often, so it isn’t posted publicly. It’s a single zip with both images (controller and encoder), designed to be easy to flash.

No. Self-install requires only basic networking knowledge. If you’re not comfortable, hand it to a local computer shop or tech person for a couple of hours — the concepts are standard (networking, streaming, flashing an SD card), not proprietary. There are a lot of options in the software, so expect some trial and error and “playing” with the settings to dial it in. We also offer guided and on-site installation if you’d rather not touch it.

Wired is always better — lowest latency, best sync, zero interference. Our recommendation: start wired and stay wired. You must begin with a wired connection to get into the GUI and configure the devices in the first place. You can switch to wireless after the devices are configured, but only if you have a strong wireless network. Wireless is really meant for cases where the equipment physically can’t be relocated, or where the installer knows the network and has confirmed it can handle the load. See the full DisplayHUB Networking guide.

A private LAN or VLAN with no guest/customer devices, wired Ethernet for encoders and high-priority TVs, strong WiFi 6 or WiFi 7 access points for any wireless displays, and a simple flat network (single LAN/subnet so devices auto-discover). Use wired backhaul for any mesh nodes. All DisplayHUB devices must be on the same LAN/subnet for auto-discovery and low-latency sync. Details and recommended gear are in the Networking guide.

No — never. DisplayHUB is intentionally open inside your private network (no passwords, no accounts) so devices can auto-discover and sync instantly. That means all Pis and players must live on a private, staff-only LAN or VLAN. Do not place them on guest/public WiFi, do not allow public devices on the same segment, and do not expose DisplayHUB ports to the internet.

DisplayHUB is only as secure as the network it runs on. By design there are no passwords or user accounts inside DisplayHUB — that openness is what lets devices auto-discover and respond instantly — but it also means anyone on that same network can control it. The security is your network’s security, not the app’s. Keep DisplayHUB on a private, staff-only LAN or VLAN, and don’t put personal phones, guest devices, or customer WiFi on the same network. When an employee leaves, treat network access like any other shared credential: change the WiFi password and remove old devices so no one can reach the system from outside. If channels seem to change “on their own” or it feels like there’s a ghost in the machine, that is always a person or device on your network — DisplayHUB never does anything by itself; it only carries out what a connected user or a saved schedule tells it. The fix is to secure and audit your network: check who’s connected, rotate the WiFi password, and keep the system isolated. See the Networking guide for locking it down.

Small venue: GL-MT6000 (Flint 2) router. Medium-to-large: Ubiquiti UniFi Express 7 plus access points such as the Ubiquiti UniFi U6 Lite (~$99) or TP-Link EAP670 (~$159), both WiFi 6. Place APs high and in the open, prefer 5 GHz/6 GHz bands, and add more APs rather than overloading one. Full list on the Networking guide.

Usually a weak or noisy WiFi signal or congestion. Move the access point closer or add another AP, confirm encoders and displays are on the same LAN/subnet, switch to wired if possible, and change the AP channel/band to avoid crowded 2.4 GHz. For many displays, add more access points instead of overloading a single one. Freezing can also mean an underpowered player — a streaming stick that isn’t getting enough current from the TV’s USB port; use the device’s proper wall power adapter (see the audio-dropout tips under Troubleshooting). If a specific encoder is struggling, see encoder bandwidth issues.

Yes — recommended. The system is designed to self-heal when addresses change (devices auto-rediscover each other), so it will keep working on plain DHCP — but static or reserved IPs still make management, bookmarking, and remote access much easier, so we recommend them. Use DHCP reservations (or static IPs) so the controller and encoders always keep the same address. They appear in your router’s client list with a hostname starting with displayhub or raspberrypi.

Live HDMI (DirecTV, cable boxes, Roku, Android TV, media players, PCs — anything with HDMI out), local video files (MP4 etc. placed on the encoder Pi), video URLs / streams, or free over-the-air antenna channels via an HDHomeRun tuner (no HDMI or capture dongle needed for those). Use fixed resolutions and frame rates for best stability, and confirm each encoder shows a live preview in the dashboard. See the Encoder guide.

Each encoder’s Quality settings control bitrate, resolution, frame rate, and compression — the trade-off between picture sharpness, bandwidth used, and latency. Higher settings look better but use more network capacity; lower settings save bandwidth. Tune based on your network speed, number of displays, and device performance. Use fixed resolution/frame rate for the most stable results.

Yes. Add an HDHomeRun network tuner with an antenna and DisplayHUB pulls in free over-the-air channels as routable sources — a rain-fade-proof backup for when satellite, cable, or internet goes down. It’s fully controlled by DisplayHUB. A dual-tuner unit runs about $110; a 4-tuner Flex Quatro about $200. Antenna placement and reception tips: OTA signal. (See the Antenna & Over-the-Air section for full setup.)

Yes — a full overlay system for text, images, logos, animated browser overlays, audio overlays, alerts, and promotions burned into the feed. See Encoder overlays. Note: heavy overlays plus a tuner source can add processing load, so use them sparingly on HDHomeRun feeds.

Yes: Xumo as a source, the Roku HLS player, and video DJs and karaoke setups each have their own guide.

Install two ways: search DisplayHUB in the Roku Channel Store (updates automatically), or sideload with no Roku account — on the remote press Home ×3, Up ×2, Right, Left, Right, Left, Right, enable Developer Mode with a password, then click Install on the TV’s card in the dashboard and enter that password. Control is over the network (no IR needed). Power On/Off works on Roku TVs only — enable Settings → System → Power → Fast TV Start for reliable remote wake; sticks/streambars have no network power. Roku always uses buffered HLS (6–12s delay). Full guide: Roku decoders.

Install from Google Play (search DisplayHUB), or with no Google account enable Developer Options (Settings → Device Preferences → About → click Build 7×), turn on Network Debugging, then click Install from the device’s card in the dashboard. Low-latency needs decent hardware — look for Cortex-A55+ cores, 2 GB+ RAM (3 GB preferred), Android 12+. Great picks: NVIDIA Shield, onn 4K Pro, Chromecast with Google TV. Power/volume run through the app; Power On uses Wake-on-LAN — a USB-Ethernet adapter makes remote wake most reliable. Full guide: Android decoders.

Fire OS hides the “Display over other apps” overlay permission DisplayHUB needs, so it’s granted via ADB (a standard, safe Android tool — no rooting, local-network only). Enable it once: Settings → My Fire TV → About, click the device name 7×; then Developer Options → ADB Debugging → On; approve the “Allow ADB debugging?” prompt on screen (check “Always allow”). The controller then grants the permission automatically and re-checks it after Fire OS updates. If it stops working after an update, re-enable ADB Debugging. Cube (3rd gen) has Ethernet for reliable wake. Full guide: Fire TV decoders.

Install from the Samsung TV app store (or side-load). You must enable network control: Settings → General → External Device Manager / Device Connect Manager, and accept the pairing prompt on first connect. For remote wake, enable Power On with Mobile under General → Network → Expert Settings (Wake-on-LAN). Keep the TV plugged in — deep Eco standby can disable the network chip. If real-time playback is unstable on an older set, switch to HLS mode.

Our LG app is now live in the LG Content Store, or you can sideload via Developer Mode (free LG developer account; the Key Server session expires ~50 hours, just re-toggle it and use the new passphrase). Enable LG Connect Apps and Mobile TV On, and turn on QuickStart+ (2021 & older) or Always Ready (2022+) so the TV stays reachable in standby for auto-reconnect and remote Power On (Wake-on-LAN). Accept the pairing prompt on first connect. Full guide: webOS decoders.

Two steps. On the Sources (Matrix) page, pick the encoder/source you want (click Select or the preview). Then on the Assign Displays page, select one or more screens and click Assign Selected — those TVs switch to that source immediately. Assigned screens show highlighted in green; Clear just resets your selection without changing what’s playing.

No. The preview images on the Sources page are periodic snapshots to help you identify the right source visually — they are not smooth live video and aren’t meant for playback. The actual live video appears on the assigned displays.

Every source and display comes from your Dashboard configuration. If a device isn’t listed on the Assign Displays or Sources page, confirm it first appears in the Dashboard — check it’s powered on, running the DisplayHUB app, and on the same LAN/subnet so it can auto-discover.

Yes. The Assign Displays view can include on-screen remote access, the program guide (EPG), and now-playing info for the selected source. Devices are controlled by direct IP (e.g. DirecTV), a network IR blaster, or an IR emitter on the encoder Pi — see the Device Control and DirecTV sections below.

Some smart devices can register as both a source and a display. If one device tries to be a source and a display at the same time, it creates a feedback loop — an “inception” problem where it ends up feeding itself. In the Dashboard you can remove a device from the matrix so it only plays one role. If a source device is mistakenly listed as a display (or vice-versa), remove it from the side it shouldn’t be on and the loop clears.

Yes, over the network on supported players. Power Off works whenever the TV is on. Power On uses Wake-on-LAN, which only works if the TV keeps its network alive in standby — so enable the platform’s standby setting: Roku Fast TV Start, Samsung Power On with Mobile, LG Mobile TV On + QuickStart+/Always Ready. Streaming sticks often can’t be powered on remotely; wired Ethernet (or a USB-Ethernet adapter) makes remote wake far more dependable. Note power control applies to TVs/boxes — small dongles rely on the TV they’re plugged into.

Yes — add Shelly smart plugs. DisplayHUB can switch them on/off (and power-cycle gear) right from the dashboard. Setup: plug it in, connect your phone/laptop to its temporary ShellyPlug-XXXXXX Wi-Fi, browse to http://192.168.33.1, join your main Wi-Fi under Internet & Security → Wi-Fi (Client), and it auto-appears in the dashboard. Optionally disable Cloud for fully local control. To reset, hold the plug’s button ~10 seconds.

Wake-on-LAN needs the TV’s network chip alive in standby. If Power On is unreliable: enable the standby-keepalive setting for your platform (Fast TV Start / Power On with Mobile / QuickStart+ or Always Ready), keep the TV plugged in (deep Eco/energy-saving modes cut the network chip), and prefer wired Ethernet — it’s the most reliable way to wake a display remotely.

Three ways, depending on the device — all managed from the same DisplayHUB interface. 1) Direct IP control for devices that speak over the network (like DirecTV) — the most reliable. 2) A network IR blaster (e.g. Broadlink RM4) that blasts IR over Wi-Fi. 3) An IR emitter cable on the encoder Pi — a $5 cable wired to the Pi’s GPIO. All let you press buttons from the on-screen remote instead of the physical remote. Overview: Encoder Pi IR.

Only with a control method attached — and even then it works like a remote, not a channel dialer. If you add an IR emitter on the encoder Pi (or a network IR blaster) to a Xumo or similar streaming box, DisplayHUB can press the same buttons the physical remote does — up, down, select, back — so you can navigate an app like the Spectrum Business Sports TV app from the on-screen remote. There is no direct “tune to channel” for those streaming apps; you’re driving the on-screen menus, not jumping straight to a channel number. Direct tuning is only available on devices that expose it — for example DirecTV receivers and HDHomeRun tuners, which DisplayHUB can tune directly.

The cleanest method — no line-of-sight, no IR hardware. When a connected device supports it, you’ll see a Scan for devices button. DirecTV receivers are the main example. See DirecTV DisplayHUB control. Contact us about custom IP modules for other brands.

The Broadlink RM4 connects over Wi-Fi and blasts IR with no wiring — add it in DisplayHUB by its IP after connecting it via the Broadlink app. One consideration: it blasts in all directions, so if several identical boxes share a room, one RM4 can change them all at once — tape over most of the emitter window or shield three sides to narrow it. Overview: IR Blaster.

The encoder Pi has IR blasting built in — a ~$5 emitter cable wired to two GPIO pins (Ground → pin 6, Signal → pin 12 / GPIO 18) gives targeted, aim-it-where-you-want control of the box in front of it. Position the emitter at the device’s IR window; confirm it’s firing by viewing the emitter through your phone camera (you’ll see a purple flash). Polarity doesn’t matter — if it doesn’t work, swap the two wires. Full wiring guide: Encoder Pi IR.

Almost never. About 99.99% of device codes are already built into the system, so the standard emitter cable works out of the box for the vast majority of devices — including Xumo. The IR learning cable is only for rare, extreme cases (a device or customized remote we haven’t pre-loaded). In those cases, wire it (Red → pin 1 / 3.3V, Black → pin 9 / Ground, White → pin 11 / GPIO 17) and use the Teach screen: double-click a button, hold your original remote to the encoder’s IR receiver, and press the matching button — it saves immediately. You can also mail us your remote and we’ll program it for a fee.

DirecTV boxes share a network over their coax. Install one DECA (DirecTV Ethernet-to-Coax) adapter (~$20) at your distribution point and run Ethernet from it to your network — this bridges every receiver. Then click Scan for DirecTV in DisplayHUB and pick which receiver each encoder controls. Works with Genie DVRs, Genie Minis, HD DVRs/receivers, and 4K gear. Full guide with wiring diagrams: DirecTV DisplayHUB control.

Network control must be enabled on each receiver: press MENU → Settings & Help → Settings → Whole-Home / External Device and set External Device / Network Remote to Allow/Enabled. If it’s disabled, DisplayHUB detects the box but can’t send commands. After enabling, click Scan for DirecTV again.

Yes. DisplayHUB can only control receivers that are fully activated and showing live TV normally. If a box is stuck on setup, showing errors, or “searching for signal,” activate it first (follow the on-screen setup or activate at directv.com/activate) until live TV and guide data work — then connect it to the network.

Confirm the DECA adapter has power (solid lights) and the coax is secure, and make sure the DECA is on the same network/subnet as your DisplayHUB devices. Tighten all coax connections if control is intermittent. Photographing the existing wiring before changes makes it easy to put things back.

Connect an HDHomeRun tuner to your antenna coax and to wired Ethernet on the same LAN as your encoders. In the encoder web interface, open Settings, set Connected device association → HDHomeRun (antenna), click Scan for devices, pick the HDHomeRun and the specific tuner number, then Save Settings. Run a channel scan in the HDHomeRun app first, then set the encoder to the OTA channel. That antenna feed becomes a normal DisplayHUB source you can route anywhere.

The 2-tuner Flex Duo (~$110) suits smaller venues or a backup feed; the 4-tuner Flex Quatro (~$200) allows more simultaneous channels. Use one tuner per encoder for predictable behavior — each encoder that needs a live OTA channel needs its own tuner. Add a second HDHomeRun for more simultaneous feeds. Plan ~$150–280 total including a decent antenna.

Use wired Ethernet for tuners, place the antenna high/clear (window, attic, roof), and use good coax/splitters. Tuners add processing overhead, so avoid heavy overlays on OTA feeds. If no tuners are found, confirm the HDHomeRun and encoder are on the same network/VLAN and that you can reach my.hdhomerun.com from that network. If channels are blank, re-run the HDHomeRun channel scan and check signal strength. See OTA signal.

The EPG (Electronic Program Guide) gives you a graphic, channel-by-channel listing so it’s easy to see and choose what to tune to. You do not need a tunable device just to display the guide, but you do need one (DirecTV, HDHomeRun, IR blaster devices, and more) to actually use the “tune to channel” feature. Tuning is not guaranteed on every device — contact us about custom modules. Overview on the EPG page.

Create an account at xmltvlistings.com, add your channel lineup, then in the encoder configuration dashboard fill in two fields: the XMLTV Guide/Lineup ID (from your lineup) and your XMLTV API Key (from the API Keys section of your xmltvlistings.com account). Step-by-step: XML TV Listing setup.

Yes. Add an HDHomeRun tuner for over-the-air antenna programming that DisplayHUB controls directly — a solid backup for when satellite, cable, or internet goes down, and it’s not affected by rain fade or internet outages. See the Antenna & Over-the-Air section above.

Yes, safely, with Tailscale — a free WireGuard-based mesh VPN that runs on your router (nothing changes on the DisplayHUB hardware, and nothing is exposed to the public internet). Once connected, you reach the controller and encoders at their normal local IPs from anywhere. Free plan covers up to 3 users and 100 devices. You can change sources/layouts, reboot encoders, and adjust settings remotely.

Your router must support Tailscale. GL.iNet routers (~$40–60) have it built into the web UI with a single toggle and are our top pick — usable as your main router or alongside your existing one. Also supported: Firewalla, pfSense/OPNsense (plugin), and OpenWRT (package). On GL.iNet: enable Tailscale under VPN, turn on Allow Remote Access LAN (subnet routing), then approve the subnet route once at login.tailscale.com → Machines.

Yes — if you invite your DisplayHUB technician to your Tailscale network, we can log in to troubleshoot, update, or reconfigure without being on-site. It’s entirely optional and under your control; remove access anytime. Note Tailscale needs working internet at the venue to connect — your system still runs locally during an outage, you just can’t reach it remotely until internet returns.

Licensing is per display, billed monthly, and scales progressively: 1–5 displays $5 each, 6–15 $4 each, 16–40 $3 each, 41+ $2 each. Example totals: 8 displays ≈ $37/mo, 25 displays ≈ $95/mo, 80 displays ≈ $220/mo. Encoders and inputs are unlimited. Lifetime and enterprise licensing are available for permanent installs — see Subscription & Pricing.

Dramatically lower. Traditional HDMI matrix switchers run roughly $1,000–$5,500+ and AV-over-IP systems $2,000–$10,000+, before cabling and install — a typical 16-screen matrix build is often $10,000–$20,000+. DisplayHUB starts free and scales at $2–$5 per display/month with no rack, no rewiring, and no port limits. Full breakdown: DisplayHUB vs HDMI matrix.

Displays keep working, but unlicensed units may show a small watermark and occasional DisplayHUB/sponsor ads. Licensed displays stay fully unlocked. To remove watermarks/ads, just increase your display count. Usage is counted about once every 24 hours, so allow a day for changes to take effect. Note: when you exceed your count, the system can’t currently choose which specific displays stay unlocked.

Yes. DisplayHUB runs locally on your network, so your screens keep playing during an internet outage. A constant internet connection is recommended but not required for daily operation (remote access via Tailscale does need internet).

Work through these in order. 1) Make sure at least one Pi is flashed as a CONTROLLER. This is the most common cause — people sometimes flash every SD card as an encoder, or flash two controllers, when you actually need at least one controller image on the network. If you’re not sure, re-flash and confirm you’re writing the controller image, not two encoders (see Flashing the SD Cards above). 2) Check the connection. Is the controller on Ethernet or WiFi, and is it really on your network? Wired is the most reliable for first boot and initial setup. 3) Try the IP directly. Find the controller in your router’s connected-devices list — its hostname starts with displayhub or raspberrypi — and browse to http://THAT-IP-ADDRESS. 4) Same network. Your laptop or phone must be on the same LAN/subnet as the controller, not guest WiFi or a separate VLAN.

displayhub.local uses mDNS (Bonjour) to resolve the name automatically. It normally just works, but some networks block or don’t support it — a business router/firewall with DNS filtering, “client isolation” / “AP isolation,” or a guest VLAN can stop .local names from resolving. Fixes: use the controller’s IP address directly and bookmark it (assign a static/reserved IP so it never changes — see the static-IP question in the Network section), turn off client/AP isolation on that SSID, or allow mDNS on the network. Tip: laptops and desktops resolve .local more reliably than some Android devices, so try a laptop if a phone won’t load it.

Give it a minute or two after power-up — the first boot takes longer. On the Pi itself, the red power LED should be solid; a blinking or flickering power LED usually means an underpowered supply, so use a good-quality one. The green activity LED flickers as it reads the microSD during boot. You can also plug a monitor into the controller Pi’s micro-HDMI port to watch it boot. If it never seems to come up, re-seat the microSD, re-flash the controller image, and confirm a solid power supply.

A few more things: power-cycle in order (network switch/router → controller → encoders → players, about 30 seconds each); try a different browser or a different device on the same network; make sure the microSD is fully seated and you’re using a quality power supply (undervoltage causes boot loops); and re-flash the controller image, since a bad flash is a common culprit (see Flashing the SD Cards above). If it worked before and the IP suddenly changed, that’s exactly why we recommend a static or reserved IP. Still stuck? Contact us.

These banners appear for connectivity or licensing conditions: EEC:IT — invalid/expired token; EEC:MP — a request is missing required parameters; EEC:SE — server error / our systems unreachable (internet or server issue); EEC:OL — this device is over your subscribed display limit (buy more display credits or remove some; usage updates every 24 hours); EEC:NS — this device has no subscription (you may also see ads). Reference: Error codes.

That display is unlicensed or you’re over your licensed count (see EEC:NS / EEC:OL above). Increase your display count in your subscription to unlock it. Counts refresh about once every 24 hours, so allow a day for the change to appear.

These point to connectivity. Confirm the device has network/internet access, that your network isn’t blocking DisplayHUB, and give it a few minutes to re-authenticate. A quick reboot of the player (and confirming the controller is online) usually clears a stale token. Persistent EEC:SE can mean a temporary server issue — try again shortly.

Almost always the player hardware struggling in low-latency mode. Switch that display to HLS mode, connect it by wire (USB-Ethernet on sticks), or move to a stronger device (newer CPU, 2 GB+ RAM). Also check power: a streaming stick running off the TV’s USB port often doesn’t get enough current — use the device’s proper wall power adapter. You can also disable audio on that display to remove the audio-processing load (fine for muted screens). Long sessions in warm rooms can thermal-throttle budget devices — improve ventilation.

Confirm it’s powered on, running the current DisplayHUB app, and on the same LAN/subnet as the controller (not guest WiFi). The controller scans periodically, so allow a minute or two. For Fire TV, verify ADB Debugging is on; for Samsung/LG, verify the external-device/Connect-Apps permission and accept the pairing prompt.

This means the encoder isn’t receiving a usable video signal from its source. Work through these in order:

1) Check the dongle’s port. The HDMI capture dongle must be in the upper-left USB 3.0 (blue) port on the Raspberry Pi 5 — not a USB 2.0 (black) port. If it’s in the wrong port, move it and give the encoder a minute to redetect it.

2) Confirm the source is actually outputting live video. The connected device (cable/satellite box, Roku, PC, etc.) needs to be powered on and sitting on a live video screen — not a menu, app home screen, or standby/screensaver. A box that’s on but idle can look identical to “no signal” from the encoder’s side.

3) Reseat or swap the HDMI cable. Unplug and firmly reseat the HDMI cable at both the source and the dongle, or try a different known-good cable.

4) Reboot the encoder. Use the Reboot button under that encoder’s Advanced settings, or power-cycle it by pulling power for about 10 seconds and reconnecting (allow a minute or two to fully come back up).

5) Try a different input/source selection. Switch the encoder to another known-working source if one’s available, and switch the source device to a different input/channel and back — this tells you whether the problem is the encoder itself or just that specific feed.

6) Rule out a bad dongle. Swap the dongle with one from a working encoder. If the error follows the dongle to the other encoder, the dongle is bad — replace it with the exact capture dongle we recommend (substitutes are the most common cause of capture issues).

7) Check the encoder’s own status page. Open that encoder’s Status page to see whether any signal is being detected at all, and confirm Settings has the correct connected-device/input association selected.

Still stuck after all of this? Contact us with which steps you’ve tried.

Power-cycle the affected gear in order: the network switch/router, then the controller Pi, then encoders and any tuners, then the players. Give each ~30 seconds to come up. Once the network and controller are back, encoders and displays re-discover automatically. If a source device (DirecTV/HDHomeRun) is involved, re-run its scan in the encoder settings.

Controller dashboard · Sources / Matrix · Assign displays · Dashboard settings · Dashboard WiFi · Decoders view · Encoders view · Shelly smart-plug power control

Encoder overview · Settings · Advanced settings · Quality settings · Overlays · WiFi · Monitors · Now playing · Status · Distribution & encoding stats · Encoder Pi IR

Roku · Android TV / Google TV · Fire TV · Samsung Tizen · Tizen side-load · LG webOS · webOS developer account

Pi CPU / performance · Low-power options · Using a Pi that isn’t a 5 · Overheating

DirecTV control · HDHomeRun antenna · OTA signal · EPG · XML TV listing · Xumo source · Roku HLS player · Video DJs & karaoke

Networking guide · Tailscale remote access · Encoder bandwidth issues · Pi overheating · Error codes · Pre-arrival installation tips

Work through it in order: 1) Search these FAQs and the Installation, Networking, and EPG guides; 2) Ask the community forums at displayhub.us/community — you’ll usually get a quick answer from our team or other installers; 3) Email us if you’re still stuck. Hitting an on-screen error first? Check the error codes reference. Reading first genuinely gets you running faster than waiting on an email reply.

Free and initial installs get initial setup help by email, plus the community forums and free consultations (even if you end up choosing another system; large venues of 20+ displays included). Paid subscribers get direct email support anytime. Paid options for guided setup, remote configuration (we can join your Tailscale network), and on-site installation are also available. A few advanced features (like the IR control options) are unsupported by design.